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Posted by Stephanie Pappas on November 21, 2010.
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Posted by Stephanie Pappas on November 21, 2010.
FROM THE TWENTYTEN'S WEBSITE:
Jeff Dodd,
David J. Krause, and Nina Zilka met while studying fashion design at
Pratt Institute. During their sophomore year they realized they shared
the belief that American fashion can be both conceptual and accessible.
The following year they came together to form the twentyten.
the twentyten creates avant-garde pieces that remain
functional for everyday life, juxtaposing hand-crafted fabrications
against a futuristic design sensibility. Their collection is currently
housed in some of the most progressive boutiques in NYC.
As a member of the Pratt Design Incubator for Sustainable
Innovation the twentyten is dedicated to creating morally responsible
clothing.
You seem to be one of the few emerging
labels that retains complete control over the way your clothes are
presented. Can you talk a little bit about presentation- what have you
done in the past, what do you think works/ what doesn't work for you?
We really enjoy collaborating with fellow artists and designers every
season because it's exciting and inspriring and also a nice way to spend
time with friends we don't usually see. We worked with Eva Mueller, the
video artist two seasons back and she made a wonderful video
presentation to play over our show. We've also worked with Elle Rex and
Mathew Barela, Fake Love and We Came in Peace for two other video
lookbooks... those are always a unique expereince since none of the
twentyten has any training in film or video and so it's cool to see our
work melded with someone else's ideas. This season we also worked with
Carrie Bilbo, the jewelry designer, who made some pieces based on our
collection... that was so amazing, to see our inspirations and ideas
used in a totally different material, metal as opposed to fabric. On the
other hand, working with other people is a very fine balance... what
works least for us is when we feel like we are losing creative control
of our product, which is why we are very protective of working with PR,
production companies and stylists directly on our shows. I imagine we
can be difficult to work with because we tend to think multifaceted-
from our clothes, to the invite, to the lookbook layout to the layout of
the show.... but at the same time, it's exactly that extreme attention
to detail that allows us to have such a tight and cohesive product.
The collection currently in stores is really sharp, really
black. So many times designers cite using black as a way to show detail
or really stress silhoutette, etc. How do you approach black/use black?
Well, we actually moved pretty far away from that for the new
Spring/Summer collection, and even right now as we are designing for
Fall 2011, we are less interested in black. For the collection in EVA
right now, we were very interested in working with texture and
silhouette, and, like you said, black makes it easy to make that the
main focus. I think those structural pieces and the yarn pieces really
pop because they are in black. But now we're all really excited about a
lot of color... like over-saturated color... and tons and tons of prints
with simpler silhouettes for Spring.
You probably get the process question all the time as you're a
three-member team. Regardless, we'll ask it- what is your process like?
Who takes care of what?
The design is all done together, 100%. We usually spend a few weeks
pulling inspirations and showing each other images, and then we start
drawing together until we narrow the collection down to the pieces we
really want. After that we can all start working on pieces... David
might start patterning one specific pant while Jeff sews the silk and I
iron all the seams for him or something...the collection does change,
since sometimes we make a piece that we were excited about in a sketch,
and then see it and it just doesn't work. Then we have to literally go
back to the drawing board and come up with something new that excited
us.
You do both menswear and womenswear, and I know from being in
the store that a lot of guys will try on some of your women's pieces.
How is designing for men and women different for you?
Interesting question... we go back and forth on menswear. On the one
hand, the twentyten is made up of two boys and one girl, so the boys
obviously want something by us to wear out and get photographed in.
However, none of us are particularly inspired by or excited by menswear,
definitely not the same way we are constantly excited by womenswear.
After our Spring/Summer season, we are thinking we may skip it for fall.
There is great menswear out there, but it usually lies in the details,
and maybe we aren't the designers to make those garments. I wish there
were more men who wore things like our womens' pieces, but sadly, the
majority of women are willing to take more fashion risks than men.
Do you wear your own clothing a lot?
Nina does, yes... constantly. She's been slowly cleaning out her
wardrobe, so at this point it's probably 97% the twentyten, 3% other. As
we said above, the boys have much less they can wear since we've
designed much less menswear.
What are your favorite pieces in the store right now?
The shoulder cardigan x10000000. Nina wears hers every single day, and
all of our friends have been begging for them.
Posted by Stephanie Pappas on November 20, 2010.
